by Wolffy

Does the thought of preparing holiday dinner—or worse, washing holiday dishes, de-boning the turkey and scrubbing the stove—make you cringe? Are you home alone for the holidays? Do you deserve a holiday from slaving over a hot stove on the big day?

Fear not: there’s a warm, cozy, tasty, local solution to your dilemma at a reasonable price at Town Centre Hotel, virtually the only restaurant open on Christmas Day. And Boxing Day. And New Year’s Eve and Day. Better grab that phone and reserve, though—General Manager Shelley Halliday says that the groaning buffet board on Christmas Day has proven very popular in the four years the hotel has been owned and operated by BC company Northwest Hotels. Adults, $20.95; seniors and children less.

Having tried the generous Sunday brunch buffet several times, I thought I’d better try steak dinner to round out the picture of Town Centre’s offerings. I was not disappointed: the New York was cooked perfectly, with a rousing sauce. The borscht was tasty, served with a fluffy foccaccia and room-temperature butter, and the mashed potatoes creamy. Best on the plate were the five delicious winter vegetables cuddled colorfully ’round the steak, not one of them overcooked.

Dessert, a chocolate marnier mousse, proved so outrageously large that the last of it had to be ferried out via doggy bag to a delighted fur person waiting in the car. Coffee was, well, coffee, courteously served with the requested cinnamon stick to lower all that cholesterol I had no doubt just loaded into my system. With a pleasant glass of chardonnay, I got away with about $36 before tip.

Scottish-born but long-time PRite Kevin McMillan enjoys his work as head chef, although he’d love greater access to local foods, particularly vegetables and greens. The team he’s put together includes brother Scott, a painter (see www.central-nervous-system.ca) graduated from the Emily Carr School in Vancouver, whose stunning original landscapes grace the hotel’s reception area as well as the restaurant. (Bring your chequebook.)

PR’s a lucky town to boast hostelries owned and operated by Canadians—British Columbians, Powell Riverites, even—instead of foreign hotel chains. Town Centre’s competent and courteous restaurant deserves your patronage whenever you hunger for the classics in comfort food.

Location: 4660 Joyce Avenue
Phone: 604 485-3000
Web: www.prtowncentrehotel.com