by Velma Richmond

Basic soap is made by combining oils and fats with lye (caustic soda) and water to produce a chemical reaction called saponification, which produces both soap and glycerin. Natural soap retains glycerin which makes for a gentler soap since glycerin is a moisturizer.

Most natural soap makers use the traditional French method called cold process. In this process, the oils and lye are heated to only about 120 °F, at which point, essential oils and herbs might be added. Natural soap makers use high quality oils like coconut, palm and olive. This liquid is poured into molds and left for 12-24 hours, depending on the oils used. The bars are then removed from the molds and allowed to cure for 30 days. After curing the soap is hard and no longer caustic. It can legally be called soap.

In commercial soap making the oils, lye and synthetic compounds are heated to high temperatures and boiled. Once saponification occurs, the glycerin is removed and sold to the cosmetics, food or explosives industries. The absence of glycerin is why many commercial soaps can dry the skin. The soap is then sent through milling machines which shred and compress it to make a hard bar, a process that requires the addition of various chemicals. By the time the soap is finished, it can no longer be called soap—it’s a detergent bar. The finished product is sometimes called a “beauty bar” or a “luxury bar” instead.

Commercial soap is usually made with cheaper oils, such as tallow, or synthetic compounds. Essential oils are rarely used. Perfumes added during the commercial process are usually artificial, and may irritate skin.

Natural soap makers can tell you exactly what is in their soap and are proud to list their ingredients on a label. Powell River has several soap makers. Check your local health-food stores and the Open Air Market for natural soap.